Page Title

cannon). If you have about 4" and at least one layer of superstructure above the servo position then you will be able to mount the servo upside down. Cut four pieces of 1/4" x 1/4" hardwood 1 and 7/8" inches long these will be your legs. Cut two pieces 3 inches long for rails and cut two pieces 2.5" long for servo supports. Epoxy two legs to each rail at either end, resulting in a C shape 3" high and 2.125" wide. Now epoxy the legs of each rail set to the outer edge of the cannon's base plate so that the rails run parallel to the cannons accumulator and are close to the edge of the cannon's magazine. Now drill 1/8" pilot holes in your servo supports so that the servo's mounting holes are centered on the support. Sit the servo supports on the top side (drum side) of the servo's mounting holes. You'll probably need to use a dremel tool to grind down an annoying little tab there so the support sits level. Bolt the servo to the support with #6 x ¾" machine screws and nuts. Turn this assembly upside down and straddle the rails. You'll want to string up your drive belts or wires at this point (see other article). With your drive system in place pull the servo along the rails till the drive belt/wires are taut. Then drill 1/8" pilot holes through the supports and into the rails. Fix in place with #6 x ¾" wood screws.

Now you need to decide how you wish to lock down the cannon platform. You can either put your lock down tabs on the bottom of the hull or extend pillars up from the cannon platform so the deck can be attached to it and then used to lock the guns in place. Like I said I prefer the deck method even though it is a little more work because as you plumb and wire your boat getting your hands down to the bottom to lock the platform in place can become tricky.

If you wish to use the simple method of the bottom lock down here is what to do. First drill an 1/8" hole through the center of your guide block right through the bottom of your hull. Yes through the bottom of the hull. Use the cone shaped sanding attachment for your Dremel tool to flare the hole on the outside of the hull so that you can flush mount a screw. Take a 1.25" long #8 flush mount machine screw and screw it from the outside in and cover over with some epoxy for a watertight seal. Next cut two pieces of ½" by ½" hardwood 1inch long. Drill a 9/32" hole through the center. Paint both pieces and let dry. Next slide these over the machine screw and secure with a nylon lock nut. Make it tight but not two tight to turn. Rotate this latch so it parallel with the sides of the waterchannel. If you attached the guide blocks in the correct place and cut the "forks" deep enough your baseplate should be able to go around the latches. Try rotating the latches if they clamp the baseplate too tightly remove the latch and install a thin washer between the guide block and the latch bar.

If you wish to attach the deck to your baseplate follow these steps. First carefully measure the height from four exposed parts of the cannon platform (two at each end) to the bottom of the deck and cut two pieces of ½" x ½" hardwood to this length and epoxy them to the platform. You should now have four pillars that extend from the gun platform up to the bottom of the ship's deck. You'll want to cover the tops of your pillars in epoxy and some thin fiberglass to prevent splitting the wood when you screw the deck to it (remember to drill pilot holes). Also paint all wood pieces to prevent water damage. Depending on how sturdy your pillars are you may need to add some cross braces diagonally from the top of each pillar to the platform about half way between pillars. Going across the cannon you'll have to work around the cannon. Remember, once it's in the boat your guide blocks and stops position the cannon the pillars just keep the cannon from popping up. Making the pillars sturdy is mostly so you can remove the cannon for maintenance.

(Continued on page 22 )